Harar Harari

The Eastern Frontier: Dire Dawa & Harar

French Colonial Architecture, Africa's First Railway & The Fourth Holiest City of Islam

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À propos The Eastern Frontier: Dire Dawa & Harar

Welcome to eastern Ethiopia, where the landscape cracks open and history whispers from every stone wall. This journey takes you to two of Ethiopia's most unique and under-visited cities. Start in Dire Dawa, Ethiopia's second-largest city, a melting pot of cultures built around the Franco-Ethiopian railway. Walk through streets lined with French colonial architecture—shuttered windows, wrought-iron balconies, and a bygone era of steam engines. Then travel to the walled wonder of Harar Jugol, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the fourth holiest city of Islam—a labyrinth of 368 winding alleys, 82 mosques, and colorful markets that have barely changed in 1,000 years. At night, sit on a small stool outside the city walls and watch as wild hyenas eat from your hand—a tradition that has survived for generations. At Monpays Tours, we invite you to discover an Ethiopia unlike any other: more Arabian than African, more mysterious than ancient, and utterly unforgettable. Celebrate 20 years with this journey to the edge of Ethiopia.

Ce qui le rend unique

Get lost in the walled maze of Harar Jugol (UNESCO), a 1,000-year-old city with 368 alleys, 82 mosques, and 102 shrines
Experience the legendary Harar Hyena Feeding—sit feet away as spotted hyenas take meat directly from a stick (or your hand!) under the city walls
Explore Dire Dawa's French colonial architecture, a legacy of the Franco-Ethiopian railway that once connected Addis Ababa to Djibouti
Shop at Dire Dawa's Legehare Market, one of Ethiopia's largest and most authentic markets, where camels, cattle, and spices are traded under the sun
Explore the vibrant, dye-scented alleys of Harar's colorful market, where baskets, textiles, and spices explode in every shade of the rainbow
Visit the Rimbaud House in Harar, once home to the famous French poet who lived as a gunrunner and merchant in the 19th century
Walk the full 3.5-kilometer circumference of Harar's ancient city wall, entering and exiting through the five historic gates

Principales attractions

Dire Dawa:

French Colonial Architecture – Dire Dawa was built around the Franco-Ethiopian railway (completed 1917). The central "Kebele" area features beautiful examples of European colonial design—shuttered windows, wrought-iron balconies, and high ceilings.

Legehare Market – One of the largest open-air markets in Ethiopia. Sprawling, chaotic, and colorful. You will find everything from fresh khat leaves (chewed by locals in the afternoon) to camels, spices, textiles, and imported goods.

Dire Dawa Railway Station – The historic terminus of the railway from Djibouti. The old station building is a beautiful relic of a bygone era, with original French signage and vintage rolling stock.

Kefira Market – Smaller than Legehare but famous for its silver and traditional Oromo jewelry.

Dire Dawa Museum – Small but informative museum covering the history of the region, the railway, and the cultures of the Afar, Oromo, and Somali people.

Harar (Jugol - UNESCO World Heritage Site):

Harar Jugol (The Walled City) – A 1,000-year-old walled city (3.5 kilometers of wall with 5 ancient gates). Inside, a labyrinth of 368 winding alleys, 82 mosques (including the 16th-century Grand Mosque), 102 shrines, and traditional merchant houses with unique Harari interior design.

Hyena Feeding (Nighttime) – A unique Harari tradition. Just outside the city walls (usually at the "Hyena Gate" - Bab al-Salam), locals feed wild spotted hyenas from a stick or their hands. This tradition dates back to the 1960s when feeding hyenas was believed to prevent them from attacking livestock. Today, it is a breathtaking cultural experience.

Rimbaud House – Once home to the French poet Arthur Rimbaud (who lived in Harar as a merchant and gunrunner from 1880–1891). The building now houses a small museum with photographs, manuscripts, and artifacts from Rimbaud's life.

Harar Museum (Bashir's House) – A beautifully restored Harari merchant house. Excellent displays of Harari silver jewelry, traditional costumes, ceramics, and photographs of daily life.

The Colorful Market (Souq) – Unlike any other Ethiopian market. The narrow alleys are draped in fabrics, baskets, and spices in vivid shades of pink, purple, orange, and yellow. Harar is famous for its woven baskets (some of the finest in Africa) and silver jewelry.

The Five Gates of Harar – The original wall has five gates: Berbera Gate, Cairo Gate, Sanga Gate, Erer Gate, and Fallana Gate. Each has its own history and character. Walking the circumference of the wall (3.5 kilometers) is a wonderful activity.

Sherif Harar City Museum – Located in a former governor's residence. Displays include Harari manuscripts (the city was a center of Islamic learning), coins, weapons, and historical photographs.

Chip Chat Ceremony – Harar is famous for its coffee (Harari longberry is a prized heirloom variety). Participate in a traditional chip chat (Harari coffee ceremony) spiced with cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon.

Harar Brewery – Believe it or not, Harar has a brewery (famous for "Harar Beer" and "St. George Beer"). A refreshing stop after a day in the alleys.

Awaday (Khat Capital of Ethiopia) – Located just outside Harar, Awaday is the "khat capital" of Ethiopia. The town is carpeted in fresh khat leaves (Catha edulis) daily, bound for markets across Ethiopia and the Horn of Africa. An unusual but fascinating sight.

Meilleure période pour visiter

October to March (Dry season—cooler temperatures, perfect for walking tours and hyena feeding). April to May (Small rains—still good, landscapes are greener). June to September (Hot and dry—Harar remains pleasant in the evenings).

Activities

Get intentionally lost in the 368 alleys of Harar Jugol—every corner reveals a new surprise Attend the hyena feeding at dusk (approximately 6:00–7:00 PM, depending on season). An absolute must-do in Harar Walk the full 3.5-kilometer circumference of Harar's city wall, entering and exiting through the five gates Visit a Harari home (with a local guide) to see the stunning interior wall decorations (the famous Harari "wall paintings") and drink spiced coffee Shop for Harari silver jewelry, woven baskets, and colorful textiles in the souq Explore Dire Dawa's colonial architecture on a self-guided walking tour Visit the historic Dire Dawa Railway Station Shop at Legehare Market (morning is best, before the heat) Visit a khat market (Awaday) for a truly unusual cultural experience (photography allowed but ask permission) Take a day trip from Harar to Babile to see the "Baboon Mountains" and the unique rock formations

S'y rendre

By air or road from Addis Ababa. Ethiopian Airlines operates daily flights from Addis Ababa to Dire Dawa Airport (DIR) (approximately 1 hour). From Dire Dawa, Harar is a 1-hour drive (45 kilometers). A 4x4 vehicle is recommended but not strictly necessary for the main road between Dire Dawa and Harar.

Hébergement

Dire Dawa:
Mid-range: Ras Hotel Dire Dawa – The best hotel in the city. Colonial-era building (original railway hotel) with character. Comfortable rooms, swimming pool, garden, and restaurant. A classic.
Mid-range: Samrat Hotel – Modern alternative, clean and comfortable, centrally located.
Budget: Dire Dawa Hotel – Simple, no-frills accommodation in the city center.
Harar (Jugol - Inside the Walled City):
Unique/Heritage: Harar Heritage Plaza – The best hotel in Harar, located inside the city walls. Beautifully restored traditional Harari architecture, rooftop restaurant with stunning views over the city, comfortable rooms, excellent service.
Unique/Heritage: Tewodros Hotel – Located just outside the walls (near Cairo Gate). Beautiful gardens, swimming pool (a rarity in Harar), good restaurant, colonial-era atmosphere. A favorite with travelers.
Mid-range: Rimbaud Hotel – Named after the famous poet. Centrally located (inside the walls), simple but clean rooms, rooftop terrace overlooking the city.
Budget: Wandoor Guest House – Basic, budget-friendly option inside the walls. Popular with backpackers.
Unique Experience: Stay with a Harari family – Some local families offer homestays inside Jugol. An unforgettable cultural immersion (arrange through a local guide or Monpays Tours).

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